How to Cook a Wild Turkey

by Naomi K. Shapiro

The "sky's the limit" when it comes to methods of preparing wild turkey -- all of them work, and all will provide some of the finest unattainable-anywhere-else eating. Trust me on that one! Here are just some of the ways to do it:

• ROASTING
  
  This traditional whole turkey dinner is not difficult. You clean the bird, stuff it if you wish. Season it any way you like, cover it with an aluminum foil "tent," insert a meat thermometer into the heaviest portion of the breast, and put it in the oven at 325˚ F., until it's done. Some strong caveats: Wild turkey, like any poultry needs to be cooked thoroughly. Most suggest an internal meat temperature of 180˚ -- some even go to 190˚ -- or "in between." Cooking thoroughly is particularly critical because wild turkey -- is just that – "wild," and thorough cooking will kill any pathogens that may be present. A good idea is that when the temperature on your meat thermometer reaches 160˚-170˚, remove the foil "tent," and let the bird finish cooking. The skin will brown and crisp up beautifully. Don't toss those "drippings" in the bottom of the roasting pan. Drain them, and combine them with seasonings and a simple flour roux, and you'll have a fabulous smooth gravy (assuming you "stir" continuously when making the roux and combining it with the drippings) to serve along with the bird itself. One quick tip -- I usually put the turkey on a rack in the roasting pan, so that the entire bird is cooked evenly.

• BREAST ONLY
  
  Follow the same procedure as roasting the whole bird, but don't remove the foil "tent" until almost the very end of the cooking, as the breast will dry out more rapidly than a whole bird. A few minutes without the "tent" will still "brown" the breast without drying it out. We also very lightly "brush" the turkey breast with a bit of olive oil to keep things "moist" before we start roasting.
  
  
  
• TURKEY "FINGERS"
  
  Cut the turkey into strips -- breasts – thighs -- whatever. Dip them in your favorite "wash" and breading and deep fry them. You'll never be able to eat fast-food chicken "nuggets" again.
  
  
  
• GRILLING
  
  Marinate whatever part of the turkey you're going to grill -- teriyaki, Caribbean jerk, BBQ – whatever -- for 24 hours – and then grill. But grilling can fail, so make sure that, for instance, if you use "strips" -- that they're wide enough so they don't drop through the grill grates; and if you're grilling a breast, I would suggest you cut it into half-inch or so slices, because if you grill the whole breast, you're liable to overcook the outside layer(s) while the interior never gets done.

While a wild turkey breast looks like "white meat", generally, wild turkey TASTES more toward "domestic turkey dark meat" than "white." That's really a good thing. The flavor is full and magnificent without being overpowering -- and there is little, if any, "gaminess" to the flavor of wild turkey. And yes, depending on the age of the bird, and what it generally has eaten, the flavor will vary, but not greatly.

Get some great wild turkey recipes on the Foremost Hunting Site

(Phil Schweik of Hooksetters Guide Services contributed to this article).

Naomi K. Shapiro, OWAA, SPJ, can be reached at cre8vnaomi@gmail.com

An Eastern Wild Turkey Hunting Adventure

Turkey hunting is an exciting sport that requires the proper gear for the best hunting experience. Because turkeys have such excellent sight and hearing, great visual acuity, the ability to see a large range, and the ability to see in color, choosing proper clothing is crucial to prevent being seen or heard by your target.



Clothing Tips 

There’s a lot of gear that is essential for turkey hunting, and all of it should be camouflaged. When just one article of clothing is not camouflaged, it can mean the difference between success and failure. Ideally your boots, cap, vest, pants, bags, gun, gloves, facemask, and gun should all be camouflaged. You might be able to get by without having camouflaged boots as long as they are a similar color to the forest floor.

Your camouflage should be similar to the background of the forest. In the early spring season, the forest is still more brown and grey and your camouflage should be more similar to those colors, whereas later in the season camouflage should have shades of green mixed as the trees and plants begin to regrow.

Safety is of the utmost concern for any hunter. Turkey hunters should never wear any items that are blue, black, white, or red, as these colors may be mistaken for a turkey by another hunter. If your socks or other parts of your clothing have these colors, be sure to cover them up.

Head 

Turkeys have such excellent vision that they can even spot the white of your eyes and recognize your face as being a threat. Therefore it is crucial to have some kind of face or head covering that is camouflaged. Although a full facemask is probably the best option, you might also try camouflage face paint. If the facemask does not cover your hair, then you can use a camouflaged cap of any kind to cover your hair.

Hands 

You will likely need insulated gloves during the fall season and lighter gloves in the spring. A couple of good pairs of camouflaged gloves are probably the least expensive item out of all the hunting clothing you’ll need. And when the weather is cold, a good pair of insulated gloves can help keep your fingers warm and nimble for pulling the trigger fast.

Pants 

Again, in the spring if the weather is warmer in your area, you will probably be more comfortable with non-insulated camouflaged hunting pants. In the fall, insulated hunting pants will conserve heat and help you stay outdoors much longer. The lighter pants will help you maneuver around in the warmer weather. Waterproofed pants are also helpful in case it rains or if there is moisture on the ground.

Coats 

Depending on the weather, you will want to wear a light camouflaged coat or an insulated coat. You will probably want to wear 2 or 3 layers at the very least in cold weather. If you carry any accessories on your coat, be sure that they are either camouflaged or covered. Hunting vests are helpful additions to your coat due to the extra storage space for miscellaneous items like your turkey calls, portable food, knives and other equipment. Again, waterproofed coats and body layers are very helpful in the case of rain.

Boots 

Boots may not need to be camouflaged if they are a similar color to the ground you are hunting on, however camouflaged boots are recommended. The best type of boots really depends on the type of terrain in your area. Heavy duty boots with good ankle support and cushioning may be recommended for rough terrain. Softer terrain may be suitable for lighter boots with cushioning.

Insulation is better when the weather is cold, and light boots with no insulation and good air circulation are better for hot weather. Waterproofing is good for all types of weather as there is very likely will be water or moisture on the ground in many areas you hunt in, and nothing is worse than hunting in wet socks. Having an extra pair or two of socks is always good idea if your socks do get wet.

Summary 

So, your choice of the best turkey hunting clothing comes down to your local terrain, the season you’re hunting in, and the expected weather. Camouflage is extra important for turkey hunting with the wild turkey’s excellent vision and quick reflexes, and it should be on every visible item you wear. Most importantly, be sure to always follow all safety precautions to have a safe and fun turkey hunting experience.

Learn More About Turkey Hunting Clothing and Gear

We had a interesting article come in on Turkey Hunting Rifles. To be honest I didn't know any states allowed this but I guess a few do. I would think a rifle would just destroy the meat but I'm know expert. Do you know of someone that turkey hunts with a rifle or is it legal in your state? I would like to find out more about this. The article I'm linking to here really is all about choosing the right shotgun for turkeys but the first part of the article really got me thinking about rifles.

As winter turns into spring many deer hunters turn their attention to shed hunting. Shed hunting is a great opportunity to learn more about your hunting area and the deer that roam it. In addition it's great exercise. Check out the latest article from pro staff member Chris Larsen as he discusses the do's and how to's of scouting for deer head gear.

Shed Hunting For A Nice Rack

by Naomi K. Shapiro

Discussing trapping is a very complex subject. We'll deal with a few basics, and then move on to other articles with more detail in the future.

Trapping can be a lot of fun, and also profitable. However, it is not for your every day outdoor sports enthusiast. "It's hard work, beyond belief, and the hours are long," says Phil Schweik of Hooksetters Guide Services. "Don't quit your day job," because even if you make money -- and you can -- it's not going to readily put you into that dually' with the big diesel you've been longing for." But even if you don't want to trap, it's the experience of a lifetime to walk a trap line with a licensed trapper on some cold, winter's day. You feel totally at one with nature and what it provides. And trappers do a great public service by maintaining viable wildlife populations.

Trapping fur-bearing animals requires multiple approaches. There are the water-based animals such as muskrat, mink, otter, and beaver, and the land-based animals such as raccoons, foxes, and coyotes.

There are a multitude of different types of traps: 

• The leg-hold traps come in single and double sets, where the jaws clamp onto the animal when it steps on a pan in the center of the trap. 
• The coil-springs trap has a set of coil springs which operate the same general way as a leg-hold trap, and slams the trap shut onto the animal. 
• The conibear or "killer trap" is very difficult to describe. It consists of two intersecting squares of one-eighth inch steel rod. The two parts of the trap intersect at their outside edges, with springs on both edges which trigger a mechanism that opens the trap. The trap looks like an "X" from the side. The animal walks through the trap, which clamps down on its neck. This is a trap that MUST BE AVOIDED by an even moderately capable trapper. Only the most experienced trappers use these traps, which, for instance, can be set up on the bottom of a beaver pond. The conibear comes in three sizes, the smallest of which will break your finger, and the largest, your arm, or even being capable of killing you. Hence the nickname "killer trap." Once anyone is "caught" in this trap, it is near impossible to extricate yourself. Conibear traps, for instance, are used for beavers which can weigh over 70 pounds, so the traps must be strong. One can ask any "old timer trapper," and you can be sure they'll have a couple of horror stories about the "killer trap." No joking matter. We're discussing it just to give you some idea of the types of traps used -- not that you should ever use one. 

Trappers have any different number of places and "sets" that they'll use, geared to the specific target animal. It's never "one size fits all" when it comes to trapping. Trappers will set up "runway sets" which are natural "paths" that the animal takes on its daily meanderings; or "dirthole sets", and "pocket sets." Then there's what's called a "box set" or "cubby set" with baits.

Trapping truly does require patience and a willingness to learn how to use each specific trap, where and how to set them up, all depending on the particular critter.

There are usually two things that every trapper uses -- and these are "musts." Without them, there'll never be any success. Water trappers need a very good set of hip boots or waders. All trappers must use long rubber gloves – not only to keep their hands warm, but to keep the traps scent free which is critical. If a fur-bearing animal picks up human scent on the trap, no matter how well it is set, they'll stay far away from the trap.

(Thanks to licensed trapper, Phil Schweik, of Hooksetters Guide Services who contributed to this article).

Naomi K. Shapiro, OWAA, SPJ, can be reached at cre8vnaomi@gmail.com

by Naomi K. Shapiro



With ever-growing coyote populations, hunting them is becoming a very popular sport. We'll discuss some "basics," but make sure you check all regulations in your area (each state and area have different regs) so that you stay within the law when hunting these "wily varmints".

Winter with snow cover is a terrific time of year to hunt coyotes. Hunters dress in snow camo to blend in perfectly with the winter season background.

There are a couple of different hunting methods:

Sit and stalk